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Copenhagen is famous for its chocolate-box charm, typified by the Little Mermaid, cutesy cake shops, the Tivoli Gardens and a host of fairytale castles. It also has some great modern art museums, tons of boutiques and, though discretion is advised, a liberal attitude to cannabis. This is where the action is. And further out in the suburbs, you can find the best contemporary sculpture and architecture as well as woodlands, sand dunes and fantastic beaches. Admission Dkr Eccentric, disturbing and entertaining museum set in Copenhagen's oldest police station. Displays of early illegal pornography, a wonderful Nimbus motorbike and photos of murder scenes - only look at these if you have a very strong stomach.

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Arken - arken. Open Tues-Sun, 10am-5pm. A spectacular art gallery built on a sand dune 10 miles from the city centre. You can combine beach, art and great architecture, although the exhibitions can be disappointing.

Make sure you check out the fabulous toilets in the basement.

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Louisiana - louisiana. Open daily 10am-5pm, Wed closes at 10pm. A breathtaking collection of sculpture and graphic art in a labyrinth of galleries overlooking the sound to Sweden. The outdoor children's area with giant Crow's nests and walkways is great fun.

Grundtvig's Church - S train to Emdrup then minute walk. Admission free. A strange organ-shaped church built in tribute to a founding father of the Danish state and a key figure in establishing the country's liberal traditions. Nearby are the large lakes and parks of Utterslev Mose. A famous centre of radical politics.

Check out the cocktails or the extensive schnapps list, then hang out on the square-side seating.

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An ex-pharmacy with huge mahogany counter and high stucco ceilings. On Saturdays, it gets packed with students. A rough and ready Danish pub in the heart of the red-light district. Can get a bit wild, but it's one of the few authentic drinking holes left in the area.

Watch out for flying chairs. In summer, the lakeside terrace makes this one of the most genial spots in town.

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Decent coffee, ice cream, cakes and light meals. You can rent paddle boats. Imaginative, tasty brunches from Hangoverhelper, which comes with a glass of cola and two paracetemol, to Trucker, a gut-busting burger with a bottle of Miller. Packed at weekends. Sattva - Istedgade 98, Vesterbro.

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An organic bakery in the middle of the debauchery of Vesterbro, showing how much this area is changing. The cakes, bread and pastries are excellent. Den Sorte Gryde - IstedgadeVesterbro. The best takeaway burgers in the whole city. A chocolate shop, deli and affordable top-quality Danish eatery.

Local or S train to Klampenborg and then five mins walk. A homage to Danish deer Arne Jacobsen situated in Bellavista, his famous white s housing development.

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Fantastic food and a great location, make this one of the best eating spots around. Reserve a table in the evening and be prepared to pay for the experience. Vega - Enghavevej 40, Vesterbro vega. The hippest club in town.

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Rub shoulders, if you're lucky, with Bjork, Aqua and Helena Christiansen. A nightclub-cum-bar, one of the best. Around 40 artists - amateurs,art students and some more established figures - sell their wares here. A bit hit-and-miss, though you should be able to find some bargains. Storm - Men's Elmegade 13, women's Elmegade 4. For deer clothes and accessories. Don Ya Doll - Istedgade 55, Vesterbro. For strange moulded-rubber clubber wear. Worth a browse if you want to turn he when you walk into your favourite night spot.

Konya Import - Istedgade 65, Vesterbro. A superb collection of plastic kitsch including religious figurines surrounded by flashing fairy lights. Bellevue - Local or S-train to Klampenborg station. A wonderful sandy beach backing on to an ancient forest.

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Bakken - bakken. Open April-Aug, noon-midnight. Claimed to be the oldest amusement park in the world. A worthy alternative to stuffy Tivoli. Hot dog stands, ice cream stalls and some white-knuckle rides including a massive rickety old rollercoaster. Set in the huge and wonderful Dyrehaven Royal woodland. Go go-fly. Inghams Eurobreakeurobreak. Travelscenetravelscene.

From Dkr a night.

A sleek example of Danish de with fantastic rooms all with internet connection. Getting around: Like the Dutch, the Danes love cyclists, and when the sun is out excellent bike paths make cycling the best way to get around.

Either try the solid-wheeled city bike - only to be used in the city centre - for a refundable Dkr20, or rent from the Cykelcenter, next to the central station, at Reventlowsgade 11 for Dkr50 per day. The suburbs are easily reached by public transport. Futher information: Danish Tourist Board,dtb. Flight time from London: 1h 50m. Country code: 00 Copenhagen holidays. The outer limits. Andrew Spooner shows you where to find Scandinavia's party town. Andrew Spooner. Go clubbing Vega - Enghavevej 40, Vesterbro vega.

Go to the beach Bellevue - Local or S-train to Klampenborg station. Go to the funfair Bakken - bakken. Topics Copenhagen holidays Denmark holidays. Reuse this content.